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Pt 3- Power and patience

  Day 5- Power Once more, rising to the roof to survey the waves. Once more, enormous, washed-out. At least I got to rock a different board- a 8’ plastic job, but an improvement. My turns and riding are working well, and I haven’t missed a pop-up in days. Challenges came from backward take-offs and …

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Part 2- Into the groove

  Day 3- Settling in Surf- An endless sleep and lie-in, leisurely breakfast and still early for the 10am muster. More good lessons- keep heading forward for speed once up, up quickly, don’t drag feet when paddling, practise nailing the cross in the board centre. The surf’s still washed out- giant 20 sec period 5ft …

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Lanzarote Surfing Trip, The Beginning

Famara beach

I left well before the crack of dawn, the feeble sun barely showing up halfway to Heathrow. The usual drowsy excitement of the first step. Immediately feel more myself….